Shauna Coxsey is undoubtedly the best female boulderer in the UK and she has been for the past few years, only last year claiming a world title for herself. At the time of writing the 24-year-old from Cheshire is lying in second place in the World Series and is fighting hard to defend her World Series title, but has she got one eye on the Tokyo Olympics as well? With bouldering introduced to the Games for the first time, she’ll surely be a dead cert for inclusion. Here are a few things she revealed to OutdoorsRadar.com in a recent interview.
“It still feels a little surreal to have won the overall Bouldering World Cup in 2016. It had been a dream since I was very young to be world number one. I’d trained towards that goal for years and standing on the podium as the overall winner was a bit crazy.”
“I’m not making a decision on the Tokyo Olympics yet as all of the information is still to be revealed. I’ve got my hands full right trying to defend my title in the bouldering World Cup!”
“I never imagined climbing would become part of the games in my lifetime. I have seen my sport go through lots of growth over the past years and of course with growth comes change. There are so many climbing facilities all over the world now. Our sport is reaching more people and it’s exciting to see so many people enjoying leading a healthy, active lifestyle through climbing.”
“This past training season I worked a lot more in the gym. I had shoulder surgery at the end of the summer and had to do a lot of rehab and training in the gym. It was nice to change things up and train in a new environment. Training for bouldering does require a lot of hours on the wall too though. That bit never feels hard though. I love climbing.”
“I tend to stay away from strict routine. Before a competition climb, generally I’ll paint my nails, have a cup of tea and chill out as much as possible. We head into isolation before ever round where I’ll warm up and have a Red Bull for an energy boost.”
“A good climber needs so many attributes. As a competition climber you need to be prepared for every type of climb. We don’t get to attempt any of the climbs before the competition. It’s one of the few sports where athletes do not practice before hand. Strength, fitness, flexibility, the ability to problem solve, patience, tenacity… the list goes on and on.”
“I prefer climbing outdoors to indoors. But I love competing too. I wouldn’t change what I do.”